Glass door hardware, explained

A frameless toughened-glass door has no frame to screw into, so the hardware clamps or bolts through cut-outs in the glass. The cut-outs must be made before toughening — you cannot drill or notch toughened glass afterwards.

The core parts

• Bottom patch fitting — clamps the bottom corner of the door and carries the pivot spindle that drops into the floor spring.
• Top patch fitting — clamps the top corner and takes the top pivot from the frame or the fixed glass above.
• Floor spring — recessed in the floor, provides the closing force and (usually) double action.
• Top pivot / patch — the fixed point the door hangs from at the top.
• Lock patch or a patch lock — a bottom or side patch with a deadbolt that drops into the floor or engages the adjacent glass.
• Handles — back-to-back D-pulls or a sleeve-over handle, bolted through drilled holes.

Full-height rails

Instead of corner patches, a top and bottom rail (75–100 mm) grips the full width of the glass. It looks more substantial, protects the glass edge, and takes a rail lock. Common on shopfronts.

What we need to make it fit

Every fitting has its own hole and notch pattern. Give us the door size, the glass thickness (10 or 12 mm typically), the floor build-up for the spring, and whether there is fixed glass above and beside. We supply the fittings with the toughening drawing so the processor cuts the glass correctly the first time.